.1«15 MRS. D. A. INWOOD'S 

BOOK OP INSTRUCTIONS 



FOR HER 



CELEBRATED DIAGRAM 



OT 



DRESS CUTTING, 



FOR CUTTING 



LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S DRESSES, BASQUES, 
BOYS' CLOTHING, &c, &c. 






BOSTON: 
ALFRED MUDGE & SON, PRINTERS, No. 34 SCHOOL STREET. 

18 71. 



THE 



Henry F. Miller Pianos 



Are recognized by the Musical Profession throughout the country as being among 
the finest now manufactured. 



THEY HAVE RECENTLY RECEIVED 

THE INDORSEMENT OF THE CITY OF BOSTON 

Hy the award of the Contract to furnish the Public Schools with the 

leary F. Miter Manas. 

THEY ARE IN DAILY USE IN THE 

MASSACHUSETTS STATE NORMAL SCHOOLS, 

RHODE ISLAND STATE NORMAL SCHOOL, 
THE NEW ENGLAND CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC 

(the largest music school in the world), 

AND THE BOSTON MUSIC SCHOOL. 

HENRY F. MILLER, 

344 Washington Street, cor. of Hayward Place, 
BOSTON. 



MRS. D. A. INWOOD'S 



/ BOOK OP INSTRUCTIONS 



FOR HER 



CELEBRATED DIAGRAM 



OF 



DRESS CUTTING, 



FOR CUTTINQ 



LADIES' AND OHILDEEN'S DRESSES, BASQUES, 
BOYS' CLOTHING, &c, &c, 



: / of oa ; 

■ 

73 



BOSTOKsi 
ALFRED MTOGE 8s SON, PRINTERS, No. 34 6C800L STREET. 

1871. 



v r 






Entered according to Act of Congress, Feb. 25th, 1871, 

By MRS. D. A. INWOOD, 

In the Office cf ;he Librarian of Congress, at Washington* 



MRS. D. A. INWOOD'S BOOK OF INSTRUCTION 

FOR HER 

CELEBRATED DIAGRAM OF DRESS CUTTING. 



To Dress-makers and the Public. 

Encouraged by the success I have met with in the past eight 
years, I now present to the general public my celebrated diagram 
of Dress Cutting. I feel perfectly justified in saying it is the most 
perfect system ever offered to the public. I have sold over 20,000 
of my previous editions. I have thousands of testimonials as to 
their worth, and all were sent to me uncalled for, as I am not 
one of those persons who hire parties to praise their goods. My 
rule has always had the preference for its perfection ; and now, 
with its simplicity combined, it must supersede all others. Any 
person can learn from the book, as a cut of every garment accom- 
panies the directions for drafting. I do not wish ladies to infer 
from this, that I think it best to learn from the book. They 
would be sure to understand it perfectly if they learn from me, or 
one of my agents; but by careful observation and study of my 
book, they can learn themselves. 

Dress-makers and families will find this Diagram as useful as a 
sewing machine ; at the present day sewing machies are almost 
considered indispensable to every family. 

I sell Sewing Machines fcrcash or by instalments, $10.00 in ad- 
ance, and $10.00 in monthly payments. I recommend the Weed 
in preference to any other in the market now. I sell Weed, 
Wheeler & Wilson, Grover 8c Baker, Singei, Florence, Howe, 
jEtna, and American Button-Hole. Any person after this date 
who buys a sewing machine of me will be presented with one of 
my new celebrated Diagrams. 

March 17th, 1871. 



The following prices include Book of Instructions, and Tape 
measures: — 

Price of Diagrams. 

Single Diagram $1 50 

Two Diagrams 3 00 

Three Diagrams 3 75 

Six Diagrams 6 00 

One Dozen Diagrams . 10 00 

Twenty-five Diagrams 18 00 

Fifty Diagrams 32 50 

One Hundred Diagrams 60 00 

Ladies ordering Diagrams will please state if they wish my 
Improved Diagram of 1867 or my Celebrated Diagram of 1871. 
They are both the same price. 

Price for Teaching. 

Ladies' and Children's Dresses (including Diagram) . . $3 00 

Basques 1 00 

Gore Dress 1 00 

Sack Cloaks 50 

Boys' Clothing 2 00 



I will send diagrams to any address in the United States, 
postage paid, on receipt of the money. Eegistered letters, or post 
office orders, can be sent at my risk. Our diagrams are packed 
between boards ; so they can go safely by mail to California, or 
any other part of the United States. 

The best way is, to send the money in a registered letter, or a 
post office order on the Boston post office. Be particular to write 
your address plain and distinctly. 

I also send diagrams by express, marked C.O.D., providing ten 
per cent of the money accompanies the order. I do this to secure 
me from express charges, if the diagrams are not called for. Par- 
ties wishing me to deviate from these prices need not address me, 
as I shall make no deviation. All such letters will remain un- 
answered. 

Local and travelling agents wanted in all parts of the United 
States and Canadas. Parties wishing instruction and to engage 
in this business please address Mrs. D. A. Inwood, East Somer- 
ville, Mass., P. O. Box 93, enclosing a three-cent stamp. Kesidence, 
corner of Bonair and Wigglesworth Streets. 

P. S. All who learn my rule have a right to teach in any part 
of the country, providing they do not deviate from my prices. I 
sell no state, county, or town rights; my business is open to all. 

Yours, respectfully, 

MRS. D. A. INWOOD. 



Directions for Taking the Measure. 




Staxd behind the lady's back; first, take the size of the chest, 
above the bust, bringing the tape straight across the shoulder 
blades (as is represented by the lady taking the measure). Next, 
take size of waist. Take those measures tight. Next, take the 
length of waist, from under arm down to the natural waist, allow- 
ing half an inch for making. 





Directions for Drafting the Front of Dress. 

If a lady's chest measures 32 inches, and waist 24 inches, length 
of waist 8 inches: first, double the lining and draw a line 1J inch 



from the selvage to allow for hem; second, place the front line of 
diagram on the line for hem, and dot in the holes corresponding 
with chest measure, and in the hole for neck corresponding with 
chest measure, and on the line for lower part of neck; third, raise 
the diagram, place the point of front shoulder rule on the neck 
dot, touching lower dot, and draw the shoulder seam ; allow J an 
inch on the shoulder for width of seam; fourth, place the neck rule 
on the lower dot, touching upper dot, and draw the neck; fifth 
place 32 of front arm size on the upper dot, touching lower dot 
and draw to 4 on the arm size. For all numbers under 26, draw 
to number 2. For all numbers from 26 to 30, draw to number 3. 
For all numbers over 30 to 40, draw to 4; all over 40 goes to 5; 
sixth, measure 8 inches from lower part of arm size for length 
of waist, at the same time make a dot of If inches below the 
arm-size for height of bias; seventh, place the square end of 
the bias rule on the line for hem, so the front waist-measure 
will touch lf-th dot (as represented in cut), and dot in the holes 
for top of bias ; eighth, slip the rule down to the length of waist 
dot, which is 8 inches, keeping the square end of the rule on 
the line for hems, and draw to number 24 on front waist measure; 
drop the rule 1 inch on bottom of front waist, as the bust takes up 
the length of front; dot at B lines for size of bias; place the point 
of bias rule at the top of bias, touching B on waist line, and draw the 
bias ; add the width of biases beyond the waist measure in all cases ; 
draw the under arm line with the bias rule point up and allow 1 
inch for width of seam. Bemarks : If the lady is very large you 
must use your own judgment, as she will need more space at the 
bottom as well as at the top of bias. My rule is to divide the width 
of front at the top of bias in 3 parts. For large forms I find it is 
the best way. My rule is to put 1 inch more in the biases than the 
differences between chest and waist measure. For example, the 
bust measures 32, waist 24, consequently I allow 9 inches for 
biases ; make the back bias the largest. Care should be taken in 
basting and making. A dress may be cut perfectly yet spoiled in 
making. It is well to pair off your biases and stretch the front 
lining under the arms; in this way you will obviate wrinkles. It is 
a good plan to lay the shoulder and under-arm seam open. Never 
use clumsy whale bones; they should always be thin, as they will 
bend with the form, making the figure more graceful. « 



Directions for Drafting the Back. 

First double the lining. Lay the diagram on the lining and dot 
at the line corresponding with chest measure, and on the line for 
neck. Lift the diagram, place number 1 of back arm size on the 
lower dot, and draw from upper dot to number 3 on back arm size. 
2. Draw the back shoulder seam with the back shoulder rule, 
placing the point of rule on the lower dot, and draw to upper clot. 
Allow i inch for seam on the shoulder. 3. Measure 8 inches for 
length of waist from lower dot on the arm size. 4. Draw the bot- 
tom of back to number 24 on the back waist measure. 5. If the 
lad}' is hollow in the back, take up a seam J inch deep in the centre 
of back. Place the point of bias rule on the arm size, and draw to 
bottom of waist line. 6. Allow 1 inch for width of seam under 
the arm. Form the side piece on the back with basque rule. 

To cut a low neck, take the length of shoulder and dot it on the 
back and front shoulder seam, as low as you wish. Draw the front 
with basque rule, and the back with bias rule. 

P. S. Form the shoulder as short as required, by the short 
shoulder rule. 





Directions for Children's Dresses. 

Take the same measure as for ladies. Have the lining double, 
and lay front scale on the lining, and dot in the holes correspond- 



ing with chest measure, and dot in the hole for neck, and line for 
lower part of neck. Place number 2 of neck on the front and draw 
the neck. Next, place number 2 of front shoulder rule on neck 
dot, and draw to lower dot. Place number of arm size correspond- 
ing with chest on upper dot and draw to 2. Next get the height 
of bias by placing the bias rule close up to arm-size and dot in the 
holes C for top of bias, and at C's on the lower part of rule draw ] 
the bias by placing No. 2 at top. 

For full waist, take up one bias in the lining, draw the under 
arm seam with bias rule, placing number 2 of rule on the bottom 
of arm size, and allow 1 inch for width of seam under the arm- 
Draw the back the same as for ladies, only allow 1 } inch for width 
of hem seam. Sew the hooks and eyes 1 inch apart, leaving the 
eye side half an inch broader than hook side. This will bring the 
lap in the centre of back. 




Directions for Drafting a Basque. 

Draft waist part the same as dress, only three-fourths of an inch 
shorter, and make the biases straighter than for dresses. Place 
the square end of bias rule at the bottom of frill, having it extend 



o S 



o^ 



\ft 




straight up to the top of bias, and make a dot at the centre of bias 
rule, placing No. 2 of bias rule on the line at the bottom of each 
side of bias ; draw to frill dot. Next, get length of frill on the 
hips. The length of frill is 8 inches; make it 5 inches fuller at 
the botttom than it is at the waist line. Draw the frill with bias 
rule, and take up a seam at the bottom of waist from under arm 
seam to back bias. In this way the front will set well. Draft the 
back of basque the same on neck and shoulders as dress. Draw 
the back arm size to number 1. Next, take length of waist from 
bottom of arm size, making the centre piece one half-inch shorter 
than length of waist, as it will be too long if cut the same length as 
waist measures under the arm, it being cut by a curve rule. Place 
the point of basque rule at the bottom of arm size and draw to 
waist line, making the frill 6 inches wide at the bottom and 12 
inches long. Draft the frill with bias rule. Next, get the side 
piece, placing basque rule on a straight line, and draw rest of back 
arm size and curve to waist line. Next, get length of waist from 
bottom of arm size, the same as front, and allow 6 inches at the 
bottom of side piece for fulness. Make the back of basque 2 sizes 
broader than front at the bottom of waist, taking it off the front ; 
this will bring the seam well under the arm, which is necessary 
for all jacket waists, as is shown by the cut, 22 front and 26 side 
piece. 



Directions for Drafting a Gore Dress. 

Draft the waist part the same as basque. This cut represents 
32 chest, 24 waist, length under arm 8, length of skirt in the back 
45, hip 42, front 40. Width of skirt: back 18, side-piece in the 
back 23, front 17, front gore 24. This makes skirt 4 J- yards at the 
bottom. This can be made wider or narrower according to fancy 
or fashion, and more of a trail, if required. You will see by the 
cut that I always set on my front gore at the bottom of the waist, 
joining on to the back bias, extending to the bottom of skirt. 



Directions for Gutting a Fan Waist. 

This waist is cut plain on the shoulders and full at the waist. 
Draw neck and shoulder the same as lining. Place the arm size 



10 

on upper dot and slip it back one inch from lower dot, in order to 
have a graceful front, and draw to 4 on the arm size, allowing two 
inches more for fulness than you have in biases ; gather it and 
baste it on your front ; have one inch less cloth in length on your 
front line of outside, so it will not sag. The beauty of a full waist 
consists in having the outside set smooth. You often see dresses 
made well except this fault of sagging in front. 



Directions for Cutting tlie Back, 

First, lay back lining on the outside and cut it one inch broader 
across the shoulders and three inches on the waist. Gather and 
baste it on the lining. After it is basted, trim the outside to the 
lining and baste front and back together. Fit it on the lady. It 
is easy to make alterations, if required, but with care it is very 
seldom you will have any to make. "White waist is cut in same 
way, without lining. 



Directions for Cutting Sleeves. 

If a plain sleeve is required, have the arm bent. Measure from 
the shoulder, over the elbow, to the wrist, and on the inside of 
arm and round the wrist. Set your number of inches down, and 
cut it according to measure. It is well to take measures always 
for length of sleeve, as you will save time and cloth by so doing. 



Directions for Measuring Skirts. 

Measure from bottom of waist, and if a sweep is required, make 
it 9 inches longer. Next, take the hips, right and left, as most 
ladies will take a skirt longer on one hip than on the other. Next? 
take front measure and have it quite short, so it will give a hand- 
some sweep. Always make two halves of the skirt, putting half a 
yard more fullness in the back. In this way you will have a skirt 
hang well. 



11 



Directions for Gutting Yoke. 

Draw a line on the front lining two inches below lower dot on 
arm size, to front line, and one inch below the point of shoulder 
on back arm size, to middle of back. This will give a deep yoke. 
If thick goods, and outside plaited, it must be four times as full as 
lining; if gathered, not so full. 



For Cutting a Short Saok, to be worn with Under Waist 

or Vest. 



Supposing 32 is the size of the bust, length of waist 8. Place 
the diagram on the cloth, and dot on the 32 lines same as dress. 
Draft neck, shoulder and arm size same as dress. Measure 8 
inches from bottom of arm size for length under the arm. Place 
the point of bias rule at the end of arm size, and draw the under 
arm line straight down. Kound off the front with basque rule. 




Directions for Boys* Clothes. 

FOR A FULL WAIST OR SPENCER. 

If a boy measures 25 inches around the chest, 24 around the 
waist, and length of waist 6, draw it the same as for children's 
dresses, only make the back waist 26, and front 22. This gives a 
broader back. Allow 3 inches for fulness on the back, 4 inches 



12 



on the front and 2 inches on the lower part of waist, instead of a 
belt. Plait or gather, according to fancy. Under the buttons, 
stay it with tape. Cut a full sleeve for this waist aud gather it into 
a band at the wrist, or a coat sleeve, as you wish. 





Pants to Correspond with. Spencer Waist Measuring 

24 Inches. 

If a boy measures 26 inches in length of leg, from ankle to 
crotch 18, from crotch around the thigh to top of thigh bone, 22 ; 
from crotch to top of waist 9, width of front 9, length of back 10, 
and width of back 10 ; from the fly with Basque rule, length of 
fly 7 inches. Draft the seat of pants with bias rule, placing 
number 2 of rule on crotch dot, touching waist dot, and draw 
top of back with bias rule, placing number 2 of rule on the 
back, and draw to outside of leg ; plait back and front in three 
plaits. Have the waistband 2 inches wide, and button holes to 
correspond with buttons on waist. Measures must be taken as 
loose as the pants are required. If for large boys, cut without 
fulness, if too large to have pants buttoned on the waist. 



13 





Directions for Drafting a Boy's Zouave Jacket. 

If a boy measures 26 inches around the chest, length of shoulders 
6, length under the arm 7, draft the neck and shoulder the same 
as dress; then place the square end of the bias rule on neck dot, 
and clot at number 6. For length of shoulder, place No. 26 of boy's 
arm size on shoulder even with chest dot, and draw to number 2 
on arm size. Next, get length of waist, 7 inches, place the 
square end of bias rule on front line even with bottom of arm 
size, allowing one half inch more at the bottom of skirt than 
it measures under the arm to allow for fulness. Draw the bot- 
tom of front with basque rule, and the bottom of back with bias 
rule ; draw to number 3 on back arm size. Cut the sleeve by a 
fashionable pattern. This garment is to be worn with a shirt or 
waist. 



TESTIMONIALS. 



Rutland, Vt., Dec. 27, 1870. 
Mrs. Inwood. Madam, — I have used your chart for over five 
years, and like it very much, would not he without it on no con- 
sideration. I am a dressmaker, so you see that I know something 
about it. I have used three before I got yours, and like yours the 
best. Yours truly, 

Mrs. Euth N. Parker, 

Rutland, Vt. 



Northfield, Vt., Dec. 2, 1870. 
Dear Madam, — I have used one of your diagrams for three 
years, and like it very much. I have a new French rule, but do 
not like it as well as I do yours. 

Yours truly, 

Mrs. J. S. Harwood, 

Northfield, Vt. 



Fitchbttrg, Nov. 15, 1870. 
Mrs. Inwood. Dear Madam, — I procured one of your im- 
proved systems of dress-cutting about a year ago, and have used 
several other systems before, but like yours the best. 

Yours truly, 

Mrs. H. P. Tyrrell, 
Fitchburg, Mass. 



Temple, N. IL, Sept. 27. 
Mrs. In wood. Madam, — Having worked some years as a 
dressmaker, and finding your system an improvement on all oth- 
ers, I have used your chart, and shall continue to do so. 
Respectfully yours, 

Mrs. E. E. Foster, 

Temple, N. H. 



Great Falls, N. H., July 11, 1870. 
Mrs. D. A. Inwood. Madam, — I have used your chart for 
dress cutting nearly three years, and am so well pleased with it 
that seeing your advertisement for agents, I wish to be an agent. 
Respectfully yours, 

Mrs. L. J. Butler, 

Great Falls, N. H. 



17 

Bangor, Me., Jan. 2, 1871. 
Mrs. Inwood, — I have used your diagram for cutting dresses 
and find it the most perfect. I have seen many other kinds, but 
should always prefer yours of all others. 
Truly, 

Miss Charlotte Stickney, 

Bangor, Me. 



Salisbury Point, May 8, 1868. 
Mrs. Inwood, — I have used your improved diagram ever since 
it was issued; previous to that had used Lasceli's eight years, and 
like yours the best of any I have ever tried. I have worked at 
dress-making eighteen years. 

Yours respectfully, 

Mrs. A. H. Dennett, 

Salisbury Point, Mass. 



Mrs. J. P. Keeler, Wyalusing, Pa. 

Amelia J. Jones, Marengo P. O., Iowa Co., Iowa, 

Mrs. H. !N". Barry, Machias, Maine. 

Mrs. A. S. Preyost, Waterbury, Vermont. 

Mrs. J. A. Stowe, Lawrence, Mass. 

Julia A. Peirce, Montpelier, Yt. 

Mrs. L. A. Luce, Lewiston, Maine. 

Mary A. Wolcott, Laine Township, Kansas. 

Mrs. E. Moore, Providence, E. I. 

Mrs. A. W. Hibbard, ]STo. 67 Broadway, Utica, N". Y. 

Mrs. H. S. Byrnes, No. 360 Third street, San Francisco, Cal. 

Mrs. Lizzie Peirce, Lynn, Mass. 

Mrs. A. P. Moore, Addison Point, Maine. 

S. J. Stoddard, Lawrence, Mass. 

Mrs. John T. Emery, Wilmington, Clinton Co., Ohio. 

L. A. Law, Lynn, Mass. 

Miss Sarah J. Williams, Lewiston, Me. 

Agnes Dogen, Pontiac, 111. 

M. A. Combes, Warren, Mass. 

H. J. Pitman, Lewiston, Me. 

Mary A. Baioer, No. 31 Eourth street, New Bedford, Mass, 

Miss L. A. Teller, Adrian, Genawee Co., Mich. 

Mrs. C. H. Harmon, Great Falls, N. H. 

Miss Lou Bancroft, Holyoke, Mass. 

M. A. Wiggin, Main street, Exeter, N. H. 

D. Johnson, Claremont, N". H. 

Miss Hattie Pase, Cornish, Maine. 

J. F. Ashley, Bochester, Yt. 

Mrs. A. E. Maccrakin, Montrose, Susq. Co., Penn. 

J. M. Macomber, Westerly, K. I. 

Annie M. Clark, Harrisburg, Pa. 

M. E. Jones, Lisbon Falls, Me. 



18 

Misses Abdy & Johnson, Athol Depot, Mass. 

Miss Lucy B. Peirce, Waterboro', York Co., Me. 

E. E. Barteett, Groton Junction, Mass. 

Mrs. H. M. Davison, Willimantic, Conn. 

S. O. Bean, Woodford's Corner, Westbrook, Me. 

Mrs. F. Simpson, Henry wood, Albany Co., N. Y". 

C. E. Burleigh, West Thompson, Conn. 

Mrs. C. C. Pyrreee, Piper City, Eard Co., Ills. 

E. J. Leggett, Marshalton, Iowa. 

Mrs. W. A. Mitcheee, Athens, Bradford Co., Pa. 

Mrs. J. E. De Mott, New Brunswick, New Jersey. 

These are but a few of the many testimonials I have received, 
and all of them were uncalled for. 



\9 

g\ (for 



MRS. D. A. INWOOD'S 



it mh Jofe |§tittet. 




A PEEFEOT SYSTEM FOE CUTTING 



FLOUNCES, FOLDS, POINTS, AND SCOLLOPS. 



« m m «► » 



This new and valuable invention is intended to meet a demand 
long felt for some simple and perfect system for cutting Flounces, 
Folds, Points, and Scollops, and cannot fail to meet with general 
approval, upon a fair trial. Those who have already seen it pro- 
nounce it one of the most valuable inventions ever offered to Dress- 
makers, and others who wish to economize. It is perfectly simple, 
and easily undei stood. The directions are printed on each Chart. 
Four different shaped points and nine different sizes can be drafted. 
They are printed on extra thick card board, with a view to dura- 
bility, and are all ready for use. 

PRICE OF CHARTS. 

Single Charts, . $1.00 

Three Charts, 2.00 

Six Charts, 3.50 

Twelve Charts, 6.00 

Twenty-five Charts, 10.00 

Fifty Charts, 18.00 

One hundred Charts, . . 32.50 

Sent by mail, postage paid, on receipt of price. 

AGENTS WANTED. 

Ladies seeking employment, will find this a profitable business. 
Taken in connection with my New Celebrated Diagram for 
Dress Cutting, it offers an unprecedented opportunity, as they can 
canvass for both at the same time. 

All letters of inquiry, accompanied with stamp, will receive 

prompt attention. 

MES. D. A. INW00D, 

P, 0. Box 93. East Somerville, Mass. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 964 995 3 

wm 



Weed "Family Favorite 



^umtmui ie } 



TRAD! 



MARK 



MM 







Are the most popular in the market, because they are capable of exe- 
cuting a greater range and variety of work, with fewer changes and less 
superfluous attachments than any other machine in existence. 

'Shuttle,' 'Straight Needle/ 'Self- Adjusting Tension/ 

THEY RUN VERY QUIETLY AND EASILY, AND WITH 

GREAT SPEED. 

Can be purchased and payments made in 

Small Monthly Instalments. 

Reliable Agents wanted on commission and otherwise. Eor terms, 
descriptive circulars, and samples of work, address or apply to 

WEED SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, 
349 Washington Street. 

JAS. H. FOWLER, Agent. 



